Skibbereen

Skibbereen is a cozy town in West Cork, Ireland. I met my dad’s college roommate, Tim, and his family. I had barely touched down in the town and Tim was whisking me off on a tour. We drove through a few villages, watched some wicked waves tear into the coast, and had a pint at the southernmost pub in Ireland. West Cork is beautiful. There are plenty of idyllic Irish towns to visit.

I was in West Cork between Christmas and New Years – a time of quiet in the area. But there was still plenty to do. I visited the pubs, bookstores, and a few areas recommended by Tim. I highly recommend renting a car and driving. Be careful, but have fun too!

Tim’s kids, Finn and Bella, brought me out to The Tanyard and Corner Bar. I especially liked The Tanyard, as the Corner Bar was too packed for me to enjoy the Trad music. Tim said that I would be able to hear the West Cork accent if I visited the pub before 3pm. So I did. And I was not disappointed when I listened to five fellows chat amiably while the dart quarter-finals played next to them.

Ireland is a fairly small country, but it hosts many accents. The West Cork accent is one of the most difficult to understand. It’s a combination of whispering, trailing off before the end of a sentence, and a speed only rivaled by Parisiens. I’d like you to listen to a video to better understand. It’s tough to find an appropriate clip and I wish I had recorded some myself.

The farmer’s accent is essentially West Cork. I was proud of myself one evening when I conversed with a West Cork man named Dennis. I’m not going to lie – I’m not sure I’d have understood anything if he hadn’t been drunk. That definitely helped slow his words so I could comprehend nearly 60% of what he said.

Aside from West Cork, I’ve heard these accents: Kerry, Cork, Belfast, and Galway. I’ve also learned that in Dublin there is a northern and southern accent. It’s fascinating when you look at the size of Ireland compared to Maine – they’re nearly equal. Yet there are so many accents in the island country. A project for myself, when I visit next, will be to record conversations in each accent.

Ireland actually reminds me of Maine for other reasons besides its similarity in size. This is the first time during my European trip that I’ve met people as friendly as Mainers. Whether I’m driving or walking, people say “Hello, how are you?” Okay, maybe not while driving, but they raise a hand or wave a finger (not the middle one). They’re very nice and welcoming here. The coast of Ireland also feels like Maine, except for the cliffs (those are stunning). The weather has been nearly constant rainfall. There’s been just a few days where the afternoon is sunny. But it feels like Maine as the weather changes.

In addition to Skibbereen, I visited Kinsale and Innishannon. Kinsale is a nice coastal community. It was quite quiet when I was there in the afternoon, but it was nice. I had some fish and chips (the best so far on my trip, but nothing beats the Liberal Cup in Hallowell, Maine).

I really liked seeing Innishannon because I think my ancestors came from there. In fact, I found a pub named Johnny Crowleys. Another goal when I visit is to grab a pint there! Innishannon had a lovely trail I walked to relax on. It was a lovely breather to be appreciative of this grand trip that’s coming to a close.

This trip has led me around Europe. I’ve tried new foods and drinks, met some super cool people, and learned a few new language snippets. There are a lot of things and places I didn’t get a chance to do and see, but I’m happy with how it all played out. Europe has lived up to all my dreams. I’m still not as assertive as I’d like to be, but that will take a lot of time to develop. I have learned to enjoy solitude and quiet. I have some new life goals like learning three languages in the next few years and maybe hosting travelers somehow.

Thank you, Tim, Michelle, Finn, and Bella for hosting and showing me Skibbereen. I’ll be back!