Quebec Trip 2024: Part Deux

Don’t forget Part One

Sunday, November 24

Our second day in the city started late. One thing about traveling with others is having to adapt to their travel style. Will and I experienced this in Italy, but I forgot how different we can be. I was ready to roll at 8:30 in the morning. Will preferred a slower start and took his time with a morning ritual of eating, reading, and meditation. We weren’t on the streets until the afternoon. I recommended that we walk to the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec. I’m not a fan of art, but Will is. I think he enjoyed the exhibits a lot. I wasn’t really interested and spent most of the time on benches wondering what to eat and explore after the museum. 

We found Frite Alors! close to the museum. We both got a smash burger with a side of poutine. Honestly, the poutine was okay. It wasn’t very flavorful to me. What I did truly enjoy was the burger. This thing was juicy and absolutely delicious. It reminded me of the burgers from Moe’s in NYC. Unlike Restaurant Asia, the two guys working hardly spoke to us. They were engrossed in their phones when the phone wasn’t ringing and there wasn’t anything to cook. Still, the burger was exactement ce dont nous avions besoin – exactly what we needed.

Going Out

Will and I were pretty tired on Saturday, so we didn’t go out looking for parties. I didn’t expect to find much on a Sunday night, but I still wanted to explore. We visited a few spots, but none of them were lively. Pub Parvais had an excellent atmosphere and an even better playlist. The bartender was super great and patient with our French. She said my level was much better than her boyfriend, who had lived in Quebec for ten years. It feels good to be complimented on my current skill level. I know I have much to improve upon, but at least I can get by in some circumstances.

The second spot we found was Pub Galway, which I think has the potential for greatness with a group of friends. On this evening, there was one guy in there. I think he was pretty lonely because he chatted our ear off. The theme of the trip: we seem to find a lot of talkers. Will and I evacuated the establishment in good order. We hadn’t found a good party, which I was in the mood for. However, we did meet some characters. Quebec may lack raging dance halls, but the people here are interesting.

Plaines d’Abraham

Monday, November 25

While Will was a good lad and hit the gym, I walked 40 minutes to the Plaines d’Abraham. Here, in 1759 the British won a victory that led to the surrendering of Quebec City a few days later during the Seven Years War. I enjoyed walking around the park in the wonderful weather. It was a few degrees above freezing (Fahrenheit) and cloudy. Two Martello Towers are nearby. Built to defend against potential American threats prior to the War of 1812, they never saw battle. They’re neat because the wall “facing” the enemy is thicker than the opposite side. That way the towers could be destroyed if taken by the enemy. 

It’s often hard to picture a battle in such a peaceful spot. I tried to imagine the British regulars pushing against the French troops. A moment here reminded me that everywhere we walk, history had potential. In Boston, near the Old State House, there is a small marker denoting the Boston Massacre. I imagine hundreds of people walk around or over it without realizing the significant place. Whether a space is declared to be of historical significance or not, it’s tough to imagine the larger battlefields. I’ve never seen war. Perhaps someone who’s been in battle may have a better ability to imagine. But, who would want to anyways, right?

The museum nearby explained the course of events very well. While the French fought and won several engagements against the English, the latter were able to lay siege to Quebec and conquer Montreal as well. After the war, New France was yielded to the English. The museum hosts uniforms of the various regiments involved, a thirty-minute film (in French or English) discussing the events of the conflict, and dozens of artifacts. The museum was well constructed and hosted a floor to describe the Seven Years War, a floor on the Plains of Abraham battle, and the lobby. Great spot.

We Meet Again

Will met me after and I picked up a chicken salad sandwich for a quick lunch. We walked the Governor’s Promenade, a boardwalk between the Plains of Abraham and Chateau Frontenac. This short walk had great views of the St. Lawrence River. I thought we would explore the Musee du Civilization, but that wasn’t open until Tuesday. We had very little daylight, but Will found a hat and we explored the Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica-Cathedral. If my research is correct, some of our ancestors were married there in the early 1700s. I have been churched out since my European jaunt, but this place was gorgeous with stained glass windows and cathedral ceilings. The church dates back to 1647, so it’s amazing to walk through the rows of pews. 

La Buche

In any case, Will and I were seated at a table in the corner. This place was busy! I ordered a Boréale pint. Our plan this evening was to eat at a couple of different establishments. That didn’t quite go according to plan. But we did share a meat pie with a puff pastry on top. It was super savory and rich. Honestly, even with half of the meal, I was full. The atmosphere here was kind with large parties of eight and romantic couples as well.

Our second stop was unorthodox for a Quebec trip: sushi. What can I say? We were craving something different. We split five sushi rolls before calling it a night. Our waiter was extremely animated and told us we could move to Quebec since Trump was elected. Regardless of my political affiliation, I wasn’t a fan of his attitude. The sushi was delicious though. 

Part Three